SIDE CABLES -                                           APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 10 - 20 MINUTES

• HAVE THE FRONT HEADER BOW PROPPED OPEN 4"- 6". STANDING AT THE SIDE OF THE CAR, UNFASTEN THE SIDE CABLE AT THE FRONT & REAR. THE EYE END SHOULD BE THE SMALLER END WHICH WILL BE PULLED THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE.

• FASTEN THE LARGE END OF THE CABLE TO THE FRAME. PULL THE TENSION CABLES THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVES USING A STIFF WIRE, SUCH AS A STRAIGHTENED COAT HANGER.  TAPE THE EYE END TO THE WIRE OR IF NEEDED - USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO CREATE A SMALL HOOK AT THE END OF THE WIRE AND HOOK THE EYE END OF THE CABLE TO PULL CAREFULLY THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE. A SMALL PIECE OF TAPE WRAPPED OVER THE HOOK AND EYE WILL PROTECT THE TOP AND HELP KEEP THE EYE END ON THE WIRE.

TOP -                                           APPROX. INSTALLATION TIME - 180 - 240 MINUTES

ALL CONVERTIBLE TOPS ARE FINISHED ( BOUND EDGES) ON EITHER SIDE OF THE TOP. THE FRONT & REAR EDGES ARE UNFINISHED ON MOST TOPS & ARE THE AREAS WHERE THE MOST ADJUSTMENTS ARE MADE. THE FRONT EDGE IS FOLDED OVER THE FRONT HEADER BOW EDGE & STAPLED OR TACKED INTO A TACKING STRIP & THEN FINISHED OFF WITH A “FRONT STRIP” ( RUBBER CORE WRAPPED IN MATERIAL). EARLY MODELS ARE FASTENED TO THE FRONT HEADER BOW & FINISHED OFF WITH WIREON TRIM & TIPS.

THE REAR EDGE OF THE TOP IS EITHER STAPLED / TACKED INTO THE WOOD TACKING BAR AT THE BODY LINE ( EARLY MODELS) OR STAPLED ONTO THE REMOVABLE BOLT- IN TACKING BARS (BOLT IN BELOW THE BODY LINE). ADDITIONAL FASTENING AREAS  INCLUDE SIDE FLAPS ON THE LOWER QUARTER PANEL & FRONT EDGE FLAPS, BOTH OF WHICH WRAP AROUND THE TOP FRAME EDGE & FINISH OFF WITH THE WINDOW SEAL RETAINERS SCREWED DOWN OVER THE FLAPS.

è  THE NEW TOP, WHEN LAID OVER THE TOP FRAME PRIOR TO INSTALLATION, MIGHT APPEAR TO BE SMALL. CONVERTIBLE TOP MATERIAL IS FORMULATED TO STRETCH 2- 3% TO GIVE A SNUG FIT. THIS MEANS A CENTER DECK WHICH IS 72" LONG FROM FRONT TO REAR IS CAPABLE OF STRETCHING 1 1/2" TO 2"+.

 è  DO NOT START INSTALLATION AT THE FRONT EDGE AND WORK BACKWARDS. YOU MUST START THE INSTALLATION AT THE REAR AREA WHERE THE TOP & WINDOW FASTEN AT OR  BELOW THE BODY LINE AND MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS TOWARDS THE FRONT.

è  THERE ARE PRE-PUNCHED MOUNTING HOLES ON MANY OF OUR PATTERNS. WE RECOMMEND THAT THESE HOLES BE MOUNTED SLIGHTLY BELOW THE TOP EDGE OF THE TRIM STICK, OR BETWEEN THE TOP EDGE AND THE BOLT HOLE ON THE TRIM STICK. IT IS BETTER TO RE-ADJUST DOWNWARD AS NECESSARY FOR PROPER FIT.

• CONVERTIBLES WHICH MOUNT BELOW THE BODY LINE HAVE A DRIP RAIL LOCATED BELOW THE BOLT HOLES. CLEAN ALL DIRT & DEBRIS FROM THIS CHANNEL. BE AWARE THAT WATER DRAINS TO THE FRONT SIDE OF EITHER REAR WHEEL HOUSING INTO THE REAR QUARTER PANELS & DRAINS OUT THROUGH HOLES IN THE BODY NEAR THE CHASSIS. REMOVE THE REAR SIDE QUARTER PANELS FOR ACCESS TO THIS AREA. CLEAN OUT ALL DIRT & ACCUMULATED DEBRIS FROM THE DRAIN AREA. IF YOU HAVE DAMP OR WET REAR FLOORS - THE TOP IS NOT NECESSARILY LEAKING. THE REAR QUARTER DRAINS MIGHT BE SLUGGISH OR CLOGGED & OVERFLOWING AFTER A HEAVY RAIN. 

• A QUICK TEST FIT TIP:  WITH THE PADS & REAR CURTAIN IN PLACE, LAY THE NEW TOP OVER THE BARE FRAME. IF YOUR MODEL HAS SIDE CABLES, PULL THE TENSION CABLES THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVES USING A STIFF WIRE. ( IF NEEDED- USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO FORM A SMALL HOOK AT THE END OF THE WIRE AND HOOK THE EYE END OF THE CABLE TO PULL CAREFULLY THROUGH THE CABLE SLEEVE,) FASTEN THE CABLES TO THE FRAME & LATCH THE FRAME TO THE WINDSHIELD. YOU SHOULD GET A GOOD IDEA OF THE FIT OF THE TOP WITH IT PULLED OVER THE FRAME. PULL BACKWARDS TO PARTIALLY ALIGN TO THE SIDE QUARTERS, & PULL FORWARD TO THE FRONT EDGE.

• HAVE THE FRONT HEADER BOW PROPPED OPEN 4"- 6". STANDING AT THE SIDE OF THE CAR, INSTALLATION STARTS AT THE REMOVABLE REAR TACKING BARS.  DRAPE THE TOP OVER THE FRAME. ALIGN THE BINDING EDGE  WITH  THE FRONT EDGE OF THE SHORT REMOVABLE TACKING BAR & STAPLE OR TACK THE TOP,  WORKING THE MATERIAL TOWARDS THE BACK.  DO NOT START THE TOP AT THE BOUND EDGE SURROUNDING THE WINDOW AREA.

• WHEN IN DOUBT, LEAVE UP TO  ½"  EXCESS AT THE BOTTOM EDGE. STAPLE LOW IN THE TACK AREA.

• PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THE SPACING BETWEEN THE END OF THE SHORT TACKING BARS & THE MIDDLE TACKING BAR. THIS SPACING IS VERY IMPORTANT.

• PULLING FIRMLY BUT NOT STRETCHING TO THE POINT OF TEARING, WORK THE TOP BACKWARDS ALONG THE BAR & STAPLE OR TACK. BE SURE THAT THE BAR SPACING IS CORRECT. KEEP WORKING THE TOP AROUND THE LARGER TACKING BAR & STAPLE OR TACK AS YOU GO. DEPENDING ON THE CURVATURE OF THE TACKING BARS, YOU MAY HAVE MORE OR LESS EXCESS IN SOME AREAS. THE MATERIAL WILL LAY NORMALLY.  FOLLOW THE SAME METHOD FOR THE OPPOSITE SIDE.

• INSERT THE TACKING BARS INTO THE WELL AREA. USE THE PICK OR AWL AS A DRIFT PIN TO LOCATE EACH HOLE. DO NOT CUT AWAY ANY MATERIAL FROM THE HOLES AT THIS TIME. STARTING IN THE DEAD CENTER OF THE LARGEST TACKING BAR , LIGHTLY BOLT IN USING ONLY EVERY OTHER HOLE.  DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS UNTIL YOU HAVE BEEN ABLE TO START EACH BOLT.

• AT THE VERTICAL SIDE FASTENING FLAPS - BRUSH ON A SMALL AREA OF CONTACT ADHESIVE IN THE LOWER PORTION OF THE SIDE FASTENING AREAS. LIGHTLY BRUSH A SIMILAR AMOUNT TO THE CORRESPONDING SIDE FLAPS OF THE TOP. ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO DRY TO TACKY TO THE TOUCH, NOT WET, TO HOLD THE TOP STRETCHED SIDE-TO-SIDE.

• OPEN THE TOP FRAME WIDER. USING LIGHT PRESSURE, PULL THE TOP FORWARD OVER THE REAR TACKING BOW & ALIGN THE DARTS IN THE UPPER QUARTER WITH THE REAR BOW. DO NOT STAPLE AT THIS TIME.

Stitched dart area-  click on photo for closer view	Open dart area-  click on photo for closer view
#3 - shown uninstalled in BLUE (on left), shown after installation (in WHITE,highlighted) . After fastening the top to the rear bow above the window, wire-on trim is stapled over the staples holding the top to the rear bow as typical finishing trim, along with metal end clips on each end. The darts are now hidden by the wire-on trim.

The factory original tops were designed to be installed this way up until the early '90's. Examples #1 + #2  are part of the convertible top design to help with the installation & are acceptable either stitched or open. They are positioned to the outside edge of the deck seam, pointing towards the outer curve. These are "darts", which help the top contour properly over the rear bow. The center of the stitched or open seam closest to the deck seam helps to position the top correctly in the center of the rear bow tacking strip when stapling the top down. These areas allow the installer to properly pull any excess in these areas & to the outer curve of the bow to eliminate wrinkles, eventually being covered over by the wire-on trim. Convertible tops which do not need wire-on trim for a finished appearance do not have these darts.

#3  is typical of many older convertible tops up through very early '60's (some of our patterns have the valance combined into the deck as one piece). The rear valance above the window was never attached to the back edge of the deck (in between the 2 sealed deck seams side-side). This allowed the top to stretch more over the rear bow from side to side & enabled the installer to totally perfect the finished appearance of the installed top.  The rear bow area is then finished  with wire-on trim to cover over the staples or tacks. The ends of the wire-on have stainless end caps held in place by screws or nails. (See information at the end of these pages regarding the proper length for wire-on installation.)

 

WHEN INSTALLING THE FINISHING TRIM (WIRE-ON) IT SHOULD NOT EXTEND MORE THAN 6” TO 8” PAST THE DECK SEAM. TOO FAR OVER THE CURVATURE OF THE BOW MIGHT CAUSE THE METAL WIRE-ON TIP TO CUT THROUGH THE MATERIAL AFTER REPEATED FOLDING DOWN

54-56 Buick Roadmaster - Drivers side shows wire-on was stapled too far over the bow curve. Top tore when the top was folded into the well area.	54-56 Buick Roadmaster - Passenger side shows wire-on was stapled too far over the bow curve. Top tore when the top was folded into the well area.

(THE ABOVE PICTURES SHOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE THE WIRE-ON IS INSTALLED IMPROPERLY - TEARS CAUSED BY THE WIRE-ON TIPS CUTTING THROUGH THE MATERIAL EQUALLY ON BOTH SIDES. THE TOP MATERIAL NEEDS TO BE FREE TO ENABLE THE FRAME TO FOLD PROPERLY INTO THE WELL. NOTE THE DRIVERS SIDE WIRE-ON -THE PRESSURE WAS EXTREME ENOUGH TO TEAR THE END OF THE WIRE-ON!)

 

DIAGRAM FOR THE VALANCE AND PLACEMENT OF THE WIRE-ON TRIM.
EACH CAR HAS A DIFFERENT WIDTH VALANCE.
WHEN THE DECK IS PROPERLY PULLED SIDE TO SIDE, STAPLE ON THE DECK SEAM DEAD CENTER OF THE BOW (X)
ONLY A FEW STAPLES ARE REQUIRED FROM SIDE TO SIDE TO KEEP THE BOUND EDGE LEVEL ACROSS
TO HOLD THE DECK IN POSITION.
MORE STAPLES CAN BE ADDED AFTER THE FRONT EDGE IS FASTENED,  AND BEFORE THE WIRE-ON TRIM IS INSTALLED

 

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• USE A HAND HELD HEAT GUN OR LIGHT DUTY TRIM STEAMER TO WARM THE MATERIAL & ALLOW IT TO TAKE A SET TO THE FRAME. TRIM STEAMERS WORK BEST - MOIST HOT AIR WILL REMOVE VIRTUALLY ALL WRINKLES. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A HEAT GUN OR STEAMER, KEEP THE TOP LATCHED FOR 72 HOURS BEFORE FOLDING THE TOP INTO THE WELL.

• WHEN ATTEMPTING TO LATCH THE TOP AGAIN, THE MATERIAL MUST BE WARM TO ALLOW THE MATERIAL TO STRETCH.

CONVERTIBLE TOPS CAN BE LEFT FOLDED DOWN FOR A FEW HOURS, BUT ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE LEFT IN FOLDED DOWN POSITION OVERNIGHT OR FOR LONGER AMOUNTS OF TIME.  LEAVING THE TOP FOLDED FOR PROLONGED PERIODS WILL CAUSE WRINKLES AND FOLDS WHICH WILL BE DIFFICULT TO ELIMINATE. PUT THE TOP IN THE UP POSITION. IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE LATCHED TO THE WINDSHIELD.

DO NOT LEAVE FOLDED DOWN WHEN DAMP.

ALL TOPS ARE TO DESIGNED TO FIT SNUGLY. LOOSE FITTING TOPS WILL “BALLOON” AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS OR SAG. IF THE TOP IS TOO LOOSE IT WILL EXTEND TOO FAR OVER THE OUTER SIDE EDGES & WILL MAKE CONTACT WITH THE DOOR GLASS WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. BE SURE THE DOOR WINDOW IS ADJUSTED TO ITS PROPER HEIGHT.

KEEP IN MIND THAT THE NEW TOP CONTOURS TO THE FRAME WHEN STRETCHED OVER THE FRAME. ALL CONVERTIBLE TOP MATERIALS ARE DESIGNED TO STRETCH & WILL TAKE A “SET” OR RELAX TO THE FRAME WITHIN 24-36 HOURS AFTER THE FINISHED INSTALLATION. DO NOT FOLD YOUR NEW TOP DOWN FOR AT LEAST 72 HOURS AND ONLY IF AMBIENT TEMPERATURE IS 60 DEGREES OR WARMER.